Tag Archive: Bologna


queue

“Queue,” by Alexei Sundukov . a painting in the Russian Museum, Saint Petersburg.

This image reflects my day today.

First stop was the bank to pay the latest government imposed tax designed to save the economy from its current nosedive – ha! ha! (IMU – the imposta municipal unica,if you’re remotely interested!).

This afternoon was the parent-teacher day at my daughter’s school. This involved the usual organised chaos where you have to repeat the question “Chi è l’ultimo?” (Who’s last?) ad nauseam at the groups gathered  in bleak corridors outside spartan classrooms.

It’s a very Kafkaesque situation; a ticket numbering system would at least let you know if you could afford to nip out to the bar for a coffee, as it is you have to maintain your place at all costs.

Lastly, I had to get a train ticket for an upcoming work meeting in Bologna, the respectful distance from the customer in front of me being marked by a yellow line.

Queues in Italy are never as orderly as they are in England so a degree of cultural adjustment is needed – to the casual observer there doesn’t seem to be any system but all the locals know the rules and woe betide you if you don’t follow them. In others words, a good metaphor for everyday life in modern Italy.

WAITING FOR THE MAN

L’UOMO CHE VERRA’ directed by Giorgio Diritti (Italy, 2009)

http://www.slowcult.com/wp-content/gallery//2010/02/luomo-1.jpgIt would have been easy to dramatise the tragic real life events at Marzobotta near Bologna in a sensationalist and exploitative manner, transforming human tragedy into crass entertainment. Instead, the story of the victims is handled with great sensitivity and humanity without glossing over the full-scale of the atrocity.

In 1944, Nazi soldiers massacred 770 people in this small farming community, an act of barbarism that beggars belief. It illustrates that Hitler’s executioners did not confine themselves to the slaughter of Jews but were prepared to slaughter any who dared stand in opposition to Fascism.

Diritti doesn’t claim that his cinematic rendering is historically accurate and it even includes the usual disclaimer at the end that any similarity with  persons living or dead is entirely coincidental. Continue reading

CARLA BOZULICH / FRANCESCO GUERRI

Teatro Comandini, Cesena, Italy  13th October, 2012 (part of the Màntica festival)

carla_bozulich

Bozulich & Guerri pictured at another show.

One thing you can say for certain about Carla Bozulich is that she sings and plays (guitar) from the heart.

She’s not one of those artists who are content to go through the motions or to give a carefully rehearsed performance.

There’s a certain affectation about this heightened self expressiveness but, fortunately, the honesty of her brand of punk poetry cuts through any pretentious arty-fartiness.

She thrives on spontaneity and distrusts the limitations and  ‘straight’ framework of verse-chorus-verse songs.

She uses words as a way into the subconscious self and improvisation as a way of bypassing formulas.

Her modus operandi is primal and cathartic – she wants to shred the deadness of empty gestures, to tap into thoughts without rationalising them first, to be open to the freedom of impulsive ideas, to give voice to her demons.

This show with Italian cellist Francesco Guerri gives an insight into a creative process that depends heavily on trial and error. Rhymes or reasons are optional extras so we are left to make what we will of the title of the one hour performance – ‘Witching Witching Witching’ – and the following lines of freeform verse in the programme:
in the
tree in the night a bright bug lit the leaves
underneath it
peaked it was woman it was paper it was
branded on her

Carla Bozulich doesn’t speak any Italian and introduces songs in mostly incoherent English – lost in some linguistic middle ground.

At one point she says : “There is a man on the bus. You say ‘what man on the bus?’. I say ‘don’t complain when this man burns down your city” . “It’s hard to translate”, she concedes, which is putting it mildly. Hard to comprehend more like!  The moral we are meant to take from this is : ‘Be nice to the man on the bus’.

“Most of the songs are written especially for this show”, Bozulich says at one point then later contradicts herself by saying that they haven’t actually prepared much in advance. As someone who prefers the existential thrill of being in the moment I wouldn’t imagine forward planning is among her priorities. Papers are scattered on the floor but if they contain lyrics they are not placed where they can be read and are probably there as a reminder of earlier brainstorming.

“I’m a little nervous tonight”, she admits but she doesn’t say this in any apologetic way – she just wants us to know something about where her mind is.

The small theatre venue is dimly lit and, for once, the instruction not take photos or videos is adhered to. The audience mainly sit and sprawl on cushions – on the same level as the artists. Two times, Bozulich wanders among the audience half singing, half ranting.

Francesco Guerri works on the cello in a very frenzied and physical manner – often dispensing with the bow to make playing literally a hands on experience. His day job is as a music therapist in a hospital in Bologna and his approach to the instrument gives some insight into the healing potential of music as a means of expression beyond words. This is undoubtedly one of the factors that drew these two artists together.

In one interview (with Ondarock) Bozulich said “Music is the only way to be non existent”. You get a sense that any performance by her is one of someone getting lost in the invisible fire of the spirit.

Some of it works – most of it doesn’t – “we didn’t charge extra for the mistakes”, she says at one point.

SAN LUCA WALK, BOLOGNA

Walk to San Luca

One of many many photos of the porticos I took on the way up.

The remarkable covered walk up to the hilltop church of San Luca in Bologna seems to be largely taken for granted by the locals.

It will be mentioned in any decent guide-book but you won’t find any leaflets dedicated to it at the tourist information office. If there was anything as unique as this in Britain it would be heavily promoted in order to attract more visitors.

A friend of mine had learnt of it from reading John Grisham’s The Broker which is set in the city. Today, following his example, I finally did the walk myself and survived to tell the tale.

The carriers of the icon of the Virgin Mary must have feared that its miraculous qualities could be damaged by freak weather since the 666 portico arches were built as protection during the steep climb up to the church. Nowadays, this excursion is popular with pilgrims, joggers and day trippers.

The arcade begins at the Porta Saragozza, one of 12 gates of the ancient walls of Bologna, and is , at 3.5 km, one of the longest of its kind in the world.

The most difficult section is the heavy-duty hike up from the foot of Via San Luca which took 25 minutes and reduced me to a sweaty, but satisfied, blob.

The present domed basilica church (Il Santuario della Madonna di San Luca) on the hill-top (Monte della Guardia) was built in 1723 and is a distinctive landmark although doesn’t contain any notable artistic treasures. The views from the top and en route make the trek well worth the effort.

If you are visiting Bologna I’d strongly recommend setting aside a morning for this excursion. You need strong shoes, light clothing and a music playlist of ambient drones to put you the right spiritual zone and take your mind off your aching limbs.

Related Links:
Blog about another blogger’s experience (shave ,ice and gelato)
Hiking gide to San Luca walk 

WHAT ARE GENERATION Y READING?

Last week I went into a  bookshop in Bologna which had a section labelled GENERATION Y.

This is the first time I’d seen such a demarcation and I was curious to see what reading was on offer.

I found it contained countless vampiresque titles including the Twilight series and other undead fantasies mostly written in the same vein.

According to some superficial internet ‘research’  Generation Y denotes millennium people who make up a demographic/consumer group of those under 30s (born between the 1980s and 1990s) for whom being tech-savvy is a given. They are otherwise commonly identified as achievement-orientated, attention-craving, independently minded, casually dressed globe-trotters who work to live rather than live to work.

They are often viewed as  impatient and opinionated types who ask ‘difficult’ questions to boring old farts like me and this gets them branded as part of the generation ‘why’.

These characteristics don’t entirely square with the reading options presented at the Italian bookstore.  I would have been more reassured by a higher percentage of countercultural works geared towards changing the world instead of being dominated by titles with a leaning towards fantasy and escapism. Or maybe this is just me staring at a generation gap and missing something!