Tag Archive: Ferrara


SIGUR RÓS live at Castello Estense – Ferrara Sotto le Stelle – July 26th 2013

Jonsì may not have been anticipating a heatwave but he is a man who is prepared for all weather conditions.

Jónsi may not have been anticipating a heatwave but he is a man who is prepared for all weather conditions.

On the drive to this show my dashboard display showed the temperatures on the motorway  to be around 35°C.  It was just as sweltering in the city centre for the closing concert of the Ferrara Sotto Le Stelle season.

Italians are usually in their element in hot weather but being packed into the outdoor concert venue in such conditions, even they looked sweaty and uncomfortable.  The impressive Castello Estense  makes for a magical setting for this most magical of groups but there is no escaping the fact that tonight it is fucking hot!

Jónsi and band were not brought up playing in heatwaves. On stage, sprays of cool mist help them survive the climatic challenge while we punters have to literally sweat it out for two hours. It is more than worth the minor discomfort for the privilege of seeing and hearing music as majestic and entrancing as theirs. Continue reading

POP SONG LIVE

Going to see Sigur Rós at Ferrara tonight.

i don’t really care what they play as long as they end with “Untitled #8 (aka “Popplagið/The Pop Song“)”

Still probably my favourite track of all time:

THE DAY THE EARTH MOVED

Locals in front of the destroyed clock tower of Finale Emilia.

When it comes to earthquakes, being on the periphery of the epicentre is not really newsworthy.

It means I can only report of being woken in the small hours of Sunday morning (4 am) by a strong tremor that left the bedroom light swinging for a few minutes.

I’m relieved to say that there was no casualties in my neighbourhood and no structural damage to local buildings.

Even if I had had the misfortune to live in one of the worst affected area – like the poor folks from in or around Modena or Ferrara – I would probably be one of the many struggling to put the experience into words.

A headline in one of today’s papers quotes one woman in Modena saying “the roof shook and then the walls collapsed” which is about as illuminating as witnesses to a terrorist bomb saying “there was a loud explosion”. Continue reading

Jónsi = Joy

This is third time Jónsi has performed at this stunning open air space in the centre of Ferrara alongside the beautiful 14th century Castello Estense. The previous two occasions he was with Sigur Ros and I kick myself for not being present at either.

The focus of the show is his joyous new solo album Go which is a logical progression of the pop direction of Sigur Rós’ 2008 album : Með suð í eyrum við spilum endalaust . The songs are shorter and in English. It is has its quiet, transcendental moments  but live, as on record, it’s the upbeat tunes like Go Do and Boy Lilikoi that have the greatest impact.

The concert began quietly with Jónsi alone on acoustic guitar and ended with a quite breathtaking full band treatment of Grow Till Tall which is one of the most stunning climaxes to a concert I have ever witnessed.

The lyrics to this song are almost child-like in their simplicity (You’ll know, when’s time to go on / You’ll really want to grow and grow till tall /They all, in the end, will fall) and as the track builds becomes just one repeated phrase (You’ll know) with the crescendo coinciding magnificently with stunning visuals of a violent  storm with a raging wind and torrential rain. Jónsi dressed in red Indian headdress and a coat of many colours roams the stage as though struggling to survive this tempest.   This video shot in London gives a pretty decent approximation of the experience but it has to seen live for the full impact:

TURNER E L’ITALIA

I really enjoyed the excellent exhibition ‘Turner e l’Italia’ at Il Palazzo dei Diamanti, Ferrara curated by James Hamilton of  the National  Gallery of Scotland .

I don’t think it’s an exaggeration to say that Turner’s travels and studies in Italy changed the way he saw the world. You can tell as much from his 1820 painting of Minehead which makes the coast of South West England  look like the Bay of Naples.

91 works  on display show how J.M.W Turner borrowed from the conventions of tradition, following the manner in which painters like Titian and Claude Lorrain combined the antique world with the present. Turner took this to the next level in his iconoclastic treatment of narrative and his experimentation which colour and light. This would later prove a major inspiration for Impressionists such as Monet.

The audio guide rightly gushes over the “shimmering opalescent mists” and “effervescent dreamlike quality” of the paintings. Initially, his works show the puniness of humans when set against the vastness of mountains, lakes and glaciers but gradually any allegoric or narrative content becomes redundant.

The later paintings show only the barest details using thin scrubbed washes of paint. One is called ‘Landscape with a river and a bay in the distance’ (pictured right) yet the features of the painting’s title are hard to pick out clearly.

This move from realism to abstraction got me thinking of the way these ideas are also present in music. Traditional songs which try to convey bliss, desire or despair can at best only approximate the emotional intensity of these powerful feelings.  Frequently, they have to fall back on the default option of  tired platitudes.

I think this is why I am more and more drawn to music which is less song based and/or has less predictable structures.

294px-jack_rose_at_the_luminaire2c_2007

The late, great Jack Rose

There’s a half hour long track on the Virginia trio Pelt’s 2005 album (significantly neither the album nor tracks have titles) that was a kind of epiphany for me in this respect. The track begins with Jack Rose playing rustic 12 string acoustic phrases but these ornate, pleasing notes gradually become swamped and ultimately obliterated by cruder drone based sounds until the track end with a fragments of abstract noise with no identifiable pattern. It’s a fascinating piece and works because I feel less sedated as a listener. It  leaves me with no familiar imagery and tonal patterns to identify with.

The parallel with Turner is that , in his move towards impressionistic works, any reassuring resemblance to nature is replaced by a less distinct, but more ambiguous and dynamic perception of the world around us.